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Sojourn

SOJOURN MAGAZINE
PREMIER ISSUE

Winter 1996-1997

 

Natural vs Synthetic Fragrances

 

Flower

In these transformational times, as the planet approaches the new millennium, we are increasingly becoming aware of the adverse effects of the toxic by-products of industrialization and the healing effects of nature in balance. This article explores the world of scent and the impact of this primary sense on our health and life.

Natural Oils

Aromatherapy synthesizes herbal, plant and solar energies to produce powerful effects on the body, mind and spirit. Scented oils, powders, waters, incenses, salts and compresses, with their powers to expand consciousness and enhance health and beauty, have played an important role in sacred practices. Since ancient times, herbcrafting has been a high folk art.

The natural essential oils of earth's botanicals work directly through the skin and through inhalation. Aromas can have a powerful effect on the body/mind, especially when one is in a relaxed open state, as in massage. Aromas are aesthetically pleasing. They directly influence our brain chemistry to produce a variety of effects-these may be mood altering, restful and quieting, energizing and stimulating, or balancing and restorative. Some aromas are even categorized as eroto-sensitizing. Essential oils are generally produced by a process of steam distillation. As the plant tissues break down, the essential oils and water vapors are released. The volatile essential oil condenses, separates from the water and is collected.

Infused oils are made by warming the plant in a vegetable oil. Sunlight may be used to heat an herb in oil for periods or several days or weeks. Seeds, flowers, leaves or roots in different combinations can be used, After filtration, the concentrated essence can be used as is or diluted as in massage oil. Olive, apricot kernel and jojoba oils are common extractors of plant and herbal essences.

Essential oils of citrus, lemon, bergamot and orange are obtained by pressing-literally squeezing the oil from the plant tissue. Solvent extraction of plant oil is used when a plant has very little oil. Rose and jasmine oils are extracted this way and sold as rose absolute and jasmine absolute. Benzene, hexane and petroleum are used in the extraction process and leave their residues in the oil. These chemically extracted oils are not used in aromatherapy.

Synthetics

Flower

Aromatic oils, perfumes and other cosmetics found in our health food stores are not necessarily pure botanical products. Many oils and fragrances are synthetic. The word fragrance on a cosmetic label can indicate the presence of any of 4,000 ingredients. As many as 600 separate chemicals extracts may be used in a single formulation. The average daily consumer uses between seventeen & twenty-one different scented cosmetic & environmental products, e.g. shampoo, conditioner, deodorant, facial soap, hand soap, dish washing soap, hair dyes, lip moistener, hand cream, hair cream, eye creams & more. According to the FDA, 72% of people with asthma have respiratory problems related to perfumes and fragrances. The following information quoted from "Making Sense of Scents," (published by Citizens for a Toxic Free Marin) is offered as guidance for avoiding toxic selections.

. . . 884 substances were identified in a partial list of 2,983 chemicals used in the fragrance industry. In a joint study by the U.S. House Subcommittee for Business Opportunities, chaired by Ron Wyden (D. Ore.) and the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health, it was found that 314 fragrance industry chemicals caused biological mutation, 218 caused reproduction problems and 778 caused skin and eye irritations.

Toluene (solvent used in nail polish removers), was detected in every fragrance sample collected by the Environmental Protection Agency for a report in 1991. Methylene chloride, a known carcinogen, is listed as one of the 20 most common chemicals found in fragrance products in the 1991 EPA study, even though the FDA banned the chemical in all cosmetic and fragrance products in 1989. John Bailey, FDA, states there is no way to supervise the fragrance industry, since it is unregulated and exempt from listing ingredients.

There is great need to educate the general community and the healing community in particular about various common substances associated with neurotoxicity. Most often allergic responses occur due to the heavy concentration of neurotoxic materials in perfumes and fragrances. For example we perfume fabrics, rubber tires, automobile interiors, tobacco, cleaning products and toothpaste. Buyer beware. Being careful, is not enough. Vigilance is the password! Empowerment begins with information, and regulation begins with the self.

Cecile Cutler's main interest is in the self healing process. Her longtime study of herbs, eastern religions, yoga, t'ai chi, and massage has brought her to the awareness of the awesome in everyday life.

Beware of these toxics in selecting beauty care products. Read labels.

Isoprophy1 Alcohol- This is a petroleum product, poisonous to the skin. It acts as a rubefacient (skin irritant). It's good for cleaning instruments and machinery.

Hydrogen Peroxide, Commercial grade available in drugstores- Contains acetone. If needed, peroxide is available in health food stores as food grade peroxide. Dilution instructions are available with the product.

Anti-Oxidants- Used in cosmetics and oils to prevent rancidity; BHA and BHT are synthetics. Natural preservatives include Vitamin E, cysteine and selenium.

F D & C Colors- Although approved by the Federal Drug Administration, F D & C colors are synthetic coal tar substances. They are dangerous, unnecessary and should be avoided.

Glycols- Glycerin, combined with alcohol forms a syrupy moisturizer that is placed in skin foundation products. Propylene glycol, ethylene glycol and carbitol are synthetic, toxic coal tar derivatives.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate- Commonly used, synthetic compound in shampoos. Has detergent and foaming properties. Sometimes referred to as "derived from the coconut." These compounds cause eye irritations, skin rashes and allergic reactions.

Aluminum Chemicals- E.g. aluminum allantoinate, aluminum carbonate, aluminum chloride. Aluminum can build up in the body through the use of cosmetics, certain foods and aluminum cookware. It is suspected as a causative factor in some forms of senility. Avoid it.

Ammonium Compounds- Toxic and should be avoided.


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